Our top picks for the petrol head from the most important and exclusive watch show in the world, SIHH (Salon International d e la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva
Did you know, there are two types of calendars in mechanical watches? One is called an annual calendar and the other perpetual calendar. Perpetual calendar watches are usually more expensive than annual calendar watches because they can count leap years without using any software or manual settings! A mechanically wound annual calendar watch has to be manually set once every year. It is on the 1st March that an annual calendar watch has to be set to the right date because it is not wound to count the number of days in February, that is 28 or 29 days. However, a perpetual calendar watch will automatically click to March 1 after 28 days in a normal year and after 29 days in a leap year.
Although the first watch with a perpetual calendar complication (or function) was made by an English horologist Thomas Mudge in the mid 18th century, the creation of the first ever wristwatch with Perpetual calendar is believed to be Patek Philippe. In late 19th century, Patek Philippe filed a patent for a perpetual calendar mechanism. Perpetual calendar complication can be found in latest watch releases IWC Big Pilot’s watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire (2019) and Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G (2018 version).
This year, IWC dedicated an entire collection of watches to an expedition of two pilots, who will fly a restored 1940s Silver Spitfire aircraft on its longest flight ever! The journey will have the legendary British fighter aircraft circumnavigate the world, covering 43,000km.
Our pick from the lot is a chronograph. IWC Pilot’s watch Chronograph Spitfire takes a few design cues from the company’s age old Mark 11 watch. Mark 11 watches were originally made for Royal air force in mid 20th century.
A contemporary watch with military aesthetics, IWC watch reference IW387902 is handsome in bronze case, olive green dial and brown calf leather strap. At 41mm, this IWC martial is going to be comfortable to sport in any weather. It displays chronograph function for hours, minutes and seconds. There are windows for date and day and a subdial with hacking seconds. A soft-iron inner case protects against magnetic fields.
Panerai Submersible Carbotech
Admired by watch-lovers for its distinctive cushion-shaped dials, Panerai first shot to fame
for developing Radiomir watches for the Royal Italian Navy commandos during World War II. Several decades on, Panerai is still one of the top watch brands making genuinely useful and wearable mechanically powered diver watches. What makes Panerai even more special is that it has never stopped innovating ways to make its products, better. Carbotech is a material based on carbonfibre and is much lighter than common materials used to make watches, like titanium and steel. Panerai was the first to introduced this material in the world of horology. The new Submersible Carbotech watch will be sold in 42 and 47 mm diameter dials. Water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres, the all black dial glows beautifully in the dark with luminous markers and dots.
Montblanc Timewalker Automatic Chronograph 41mm
Here’s a watch that is one of the finest investments you will make. This reverse panda dial (because it is black and white) is a captivating piece with sub dials reminiscent of the dashboards of vintage race cars. Its stunning colour combination qualifies it to be adorned on the wrist from day to night. It is sporty, classy, vintage, cool, all at the same time. Small seconds of the watch are represented on the sub dial at 9. Elapsed minutes at 12,
elapsed hours at 6. Date is shown on an aperture at 3. A pure racer’s watch, the timewalker has a tachymeter engraved on the fixed black ceramic bezel. The stainless steel watch can be fastened around the wrist with a comfortable black perforated rubber strap